Thanksgiving: Let the Eating Commence

It’s Thanksgiving! Well, in the United States anyway (the Canadians get an early march on us by holding theirs in October). It’s a holiday designed specifically around American food culture, where no one is supposed to walk away hungry, and leftovers are the language of love we all speak. For people like me with allergies, however, a major holiday with lots and lots of food can turn into a minefield of potential tribulation.

Most Thanksgiving meals in the US are handled buffet-style. When I was a child, every year we’d say grace and then line up single-file, clutching our plates, to tread alongside the kitchen counter, scooping up turkey and side dishes before looping through the front room to make it back to the dinner table. When you have food allergies, as much as these are fond memories, they also contain a certain amount of stress. Will someone put the green bean casserole spoon in the wrong bowl? Will someone have ‘helpfully’ added butter to the peas and onions dish? Has an inattentive aunt allowed her Waldorf salad to touch the turkey fork and then not cleaned it off?

Getting right with the holiday meal took a really long time. It started with an honest and frank conversation with my family about what I needed to avoid, and how I needed my food kept away from the food and utensils used by people without my allergy. When I was younger, my mother had to be quite firm on my behalf. Now, if I visit someone else’s home for Thanksgiving I will bring one or two side dishes with me. Fortunately, the potlach aspect of Thanksgiving makes this very easy, and it also helps alleviate the isolating feeling that Eating While Allergic can instill in you when in a group.

If you’re not in charge of holiday preparations (and with a major holiday, younger family probably are not) then don’t be hesitant to go to your grandparent or parents, or your aunt or cousin, and explain your allergy needs. Do you need to bring your own meal completely? Do you want to skip the meal and just eat dessert? What part of Thanksgiving is so important for you that you want to be in charge of it?

For me, I want the full package, which means I tell people what brands I can eat, and what ingredients I can’t have. If I can throw together some vegetable dishes that make everyone happy, then I’ll do so, and gladly. If someone is willing, I’ll make the turkey, too. Part of making a holiday special is putting in the degree of work that makes everyone happy.

Source your food carefully! If you’re going for any kind of turkey, speak to your butcher about the type of meat you’re buying. Is it corn-fed? Do they wash the meat in any kind of solution? Do they butcher in house or get it from elsewhere? I can’t recommend a brand, but these are important questions to ask. Knowing your allergy, means knowing what questions you have to ask to purchase meat and vegetables that are safe for your holiday table!

This week, I’ve got a complete savory Thanksgiving meal, which I and my family eat ourselves. It’s got turkey, it’s got a green vegetable, and there’s not too much clean up afterwards. This meal is the basis on which you can begin to build your own Thanksgiving feast, allergy-free and delicious.

Turkey with Roasted Vegetables

Rice Stuffing

Roasted Sweet Potato Bites

Shepherd’s Pie

Not surprisingly, when I made lamb stew, two days later I had leftover lamb stew, about enough for one person to have a small bowl, and no inclination to be athletic in the kitchen. This isn’t surprising on a Saturday, so as I stared at the insides of the fridge, vaguely warning myself that I was letting all the cold air out (did your parents tell you that, too, as a child? Some things you can never quite leave behind you), I sort of aimlessly decided that lamb was too expensive to go to waste. I had a potato, and I had some fake butter, time to make a pie!

Well, not a real pie. I mean ‘pie’ like the British make them: savory and with potatoes. Shepherd’s Pie is one of those recipes that everyone should have on hand to make up a warm, solid meal without too much fuss and to get rid of all those leftover vegetables you wind up with. It’s tasty, it’s easily stretched from two people to a feast with barely any math involved, and it stays in the oven, heating your entire house and making it smell like a medieval kitchen. Culinary cosplay is nothing to be ashamed of! Sure, technically, I wouldn’t have survived the Middle Ages with my allergies, but this is my pretend world, and if I say Eleanor of Aquitaine ate allergy-free, she did!

If you don’t hang around a state with a lot of sheep, Shepherd’s Pie is a meat dish, full of vegetables, topped with a crispy, buttery, mashed potato topper that you cook separately, and then bake into a textural melting pot in the oven. It takes a lot of (fake) butter, not as many potatoes as you might think, and uses up all those vegetal odds and ends you wind up with after a while. Texturally, I think you get more for your buck with chopped meat than you do with ground, but it’s perfectly acceptable to substitute one for the other. If you’re a vegan or a vegetarian, jettisoning the meat means introducing more root vegetables than just the mashed potato, such as rutabagas, turnips, or parsnips. You could also use lentils, chickpeas, borlotti or kidney beans. It’s winter! Think like a Hobbit.

The prep for this recipe comes from the fact that you cook the pie filling before you make the pie. That makes less clean up and cook time in the oven later on, because it decreases the amount of water that has to steam away in the oven. The enemy of a good pie is too much liquid!  Trust me, you don’t want anything boiling over in there; this is supposed to decrease your work, not cause you back pain from scraping out the oven. So cook it down for a little bit before you put the pie together.

I also have to make my own mashed potatoes since I don’t want to try a commercial ready-made brand that might come into contact with a variety of my allergies. For a corn allergy, I know I’m pushing it because people have gotten a reaction from root vegetables that grow in corn-treated soil (the fertilizer, the sprays, take your pick). So far, I’ve done very well with the root vegetables I’ve used from my local grocery store, but always be safe! Substitute what you can’t eat with things you can!  Remember, everyone reacts differently to food when you have an allergy.

For those of you who don’t have leftover stew (probably most of you) I wanted to share my recipe for Shepherd’s Pie starting from the top. This is one of those hurry up and wait dishes, perfect for the weekend with leftovers for lunch the next day, or for when you have to feed many people all at once with a minimum of complaining.

You’ll Need (Serves 2-3):

Pie Ingredients:

2 carrots, chopped small

2 celery stalks, chopped small

1 cup lamb, chopped or ground, or an equivalent amount of root vegetables or legumes

1 onion, chopped small

1/2 cup peas

2 cloves garlic, smashed and chopped

1 small bay leaf

2 tsp. rosemary

2 tsp. thyme

2 Tbsp. parsley

2 tsp. paprika

Salt and Pepper to taste

2 tsp. olive oil

1-1 1/2 cups lamb broth or water

1-2 tsp. tapioca flour (optional)

To Make:

Heat olive oil in a large pot at medium-low and add in the herbs/spices to fry them up a bit. Add the meat to brown it and make sure to add salt and pepper as well. Lamb has a lot of fat to it, so if you don’t want it all, remove the meat from the pot, and drain out the excess oil before returning the pot to the stove, turning it on and starting to soften the vegetables.

Add all the vegetables except the peas in with the meat and cook them, stirring sometimes, until the vegetables start to feel soft and the onions are translucent. I always add the garlic about two minutes before I add the broth to keep it from burning. Once a little scrapable stuff develops on the bottom of the pot, deglaze the whole thing with the broth or water, and leave it to cook down for about twenty minutes.

If you’re adding the tapioca flour, keep a little broth back to mix the flour into a slurry before adding it to the pot. That way you won’t get little lumps of flour in the pie filling.

Turn the heat to medium and let the mixture bubble up a little bit. No violently roiling boils here! Just polite penny-sized bubbles easily broken by your spoon as you stir it to make sure nothing sticks to the bottom.

Once the filling has reduced enough that it looks like meat and vegetables in a gravy that covers the back of your spoon, take out the bay leaf. Choose an ovenproof casserole dish big enough for your filling and carefully ladle the stew out of the pot. The ideal amount is that the stew hits the halfway mark on the dish, but don’t worry about it. Add the peas, and leave the pie filling alone as you make your mashed potatoes for the topping.

Mashed Potato Topper:

1 large russet potato or sweet potato, or 4 small potatoes

5 Tbsp. fake or real butter (I use Miyoko’s)

4 cups water to cook the potatoes in

Salt and Pepper to taste

To make:

First off, give your potatoes a good wash in the sink. I’d say scrub, but since we’re in the army now and peeling these potatoes, it doesn’t really matter. Peel the potatoes and dig out any dark spots or eyes. Set a pot with the four cups of water on the stove at medium. To make the potato cook faster, chop it up. Potatoes are really slippery, so in order to be safe, I hold my knife at a forty-five degree angle, and turn my potato over and over each time I make a cut, which makes the pieces of a uniform size and shape.  Add the potatoes and salt to the water and let them boil, stirring occasionally so it doesn’t bubble over. The potatoes are done when you can stick a fork in them without resistance.

Drain the potatoes, leaving a tablespoon of starchy water in the bottom. Add salt, pepper, and 3 Tbsp. of fake butter to the pieces, and then mash them smooth. Do not be afraid!  Use a masher, use a fork, and just smash those potatoes into submission.

To assemble the pie:

Preheat your oven to 375F. Spoon heaping portions of mashed potato on top of your filling, and carefully smooth the top out to the sides to make it look more like a pie and less like a savory ice cream sundae. Quarter two tablespoons of fake butter and push the pieces strategically into the top so that it will melt and make a crispy, buttery texture. Take a butter knife and make four steam holes in the top of the pie, then set the dish on to a baking sheet covered in foil in case it boils over, and put the whole shebang into the oven.

To make:

Decrease the temperature of the oven to 350F, and cook until the pie is brown and bubbling and you can see crisp bits on the top and smell the cooking food. Once cooked, take it out, and let it cool for a few minutes or serve immediately. Takes about 45 minutes to an hour.

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Hearty Lamb Stew

A good soup or stew is the perfect all day meal during the cold season (by which I mean, any month after August), and I make them constantly. Lamb stew, however, is considered something of a treat in my family. My grandmother cooked lamb (or rather, mutton) and my mom does too. I got the basis of this recipe from them, and then added my own tweaks to call the recipe my own.

I have a hit or miss relationship with red meat, to be honest, and so we don’t eat a ton of it in the house. That’s why this lamb stew is special to me; I have to make the most out of it, because it’s not coming back around again! And this stew is something else, let me tell you. I’ve eaten it for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and never been left feeling unsatisfied.

You’ll need (serves 4-6):

1-2 lamb shanks

4 carrots, chopped roughly

4 celery stalks, chopped roughly

1 onion, chopped

2 parsnips, chopped

2-3 large potatoes, peeled and chopped

3-4 garlic cloves, crushed or chopped

1 cup red wine (think Bordeaux, tempranillo, or malbec)

4 cups water

1 Tbsp cooking oil

1 large bayleaf

3 tsp parsley, chopped

3 tsp rosemary, crushed

Salt and black pepper to taste

1 Tbsp tapioca flour (optional)

Get out a good pot with a lid, and add in your lamb shanks. Brown them with the cooking oil at a medium heat, and then remove the meat to rest on a plate, while you add in all your vegetables except the potatoes, salt, pepper, garlic, spices and herbs.

Cook down your vegetables until a light brown crust forms on the bottom of the pot (the scrap-able bits!) and then deglaze the entire pot with the red wine. Don’t stand over it, unless you want a face full of alcohol-scented steam! Take a good spoon, and scrape up all the crust on the bottom of the pot, and then add in the lamb shanks, and the four cups of water. Lamb is such a flavorful meat that you don’t need to buy broth, this makes it for you!

Peel and chop the potatoes and add them into the stew. I think potatoes make the stew hearty enough not to need a thickener, but if your stew is looking a little thin, here’s what to do: Ladle out one cup of the broth into a soup bowl and add one tablespoon of tapioca flour. Whisk them together to avoid lumps of flour in the stew, and then add the slurry back into the pot.

Bring the pot to a bubbling boil, and then reduce the heat to a simmer (usually I put it on medium-low or low). Cover and let it cook for at least an hour, if not more. The longer it cooks, the more rich it will taste! Stir occasionally, and let it reduce down by about a quarter.

Before you want to serve up, take some tongs and pinch out the lamb shanks. Set them on a plate and cut off all the meat. Don’t worry about being too savage with your knife cuts! This is a stew, and you want to have nice chunks of meat to go with those big vegetable pieces. Add the meat back in to warm it up, and then ladle out into a gigantic bowl to facilitate gulping it down with your biggest spoon.

Tip: If you’re making this ahead of time, I like to add the potatoes into the stew thirty minutes to an hour before serving, because I don’t want them to completely disintegrate. If you don’t have the time, add the potatoes when you add in the lamb shanks, and let them all cook together!

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