Peppery Potato and Leek Soup

Look, I love soup. I just do! I make a lot of broth, I spend a lot of time figuring out ways to use it, and if it’s not in a sauce, then it’s definitely going to show up in a soup later on. I can’t help it! It’s so easy and filling, and I don’t think it’s too much to say that, when you start staring into the cupboard, wondering what you can possibly make with what you have left…soup is going to be the answer almost every time.

This soup, when hot, is more of a winter/fall menu item, where you could maybe stretch into a particularly cold early spring. If served cold, I think it could be a passable Vichyssoise in the spring and summer months, though I confess it’s not my go-to summer dish (that would be strawberries and chicken salad). It’s very simply, requires nothing much from the pantry, and you can beef it up with anything from a good piece of toast to a pat of butter to a smattering of chopped green onion. I add more pepper, which possibly says something about me as a person.

You’ll Need (serves 2 – 4):

6 small potatoes or 4 large ones, peeled and chopped

1 – 2 large leeks, cleaned and chopped

1/4 cup onion, chopped

2 tsps white pepper

2 tsps black pepper

1 – 2 bay leaves

3 cloves roasted garlic

3 tsps salt

4 cups chicken broth

1 Tblsp olive oil

Get a large pot with a lid and heat the pot on medium-low with the olive oil. Add the leeks and onions, salt and peppers, and begin to wilt them, stirring occasionally. Once they begin to soften, add in the roasted garlic and smush them all together, stirring for two minutes until you can smell the garlic.

Add in the bay leaf, the potatoes, and the broth. Then, bring it to boil and simmer it with the lid covered for about twenty – thirty minutes. Check the potatoes occasionally by sticking them with a fork to see if they’re done. Once they’ve started to crumble, get a potato masher out, or a large spoon, and mash the potatoes in the broth. This makes the dish look creamy while still preserving a bit of texture, so that it’s not entirely smooth. Stir it up, remove the bay leaf, and serve!

Additional Comments:

  • A lot of traditional Leek and Potato soups add heavy cream or sour cream as an ingredient, to make a very luxurious, silken soup. I don’t honestly think it needs this, both because of my allergies and also because I don’t like just adding things like that to soups. I prefer them as personal add-ons, a dollop of non-dairy sour cream or yogurt here, a pat of butter there, so that you can enjoy this soup in the same way you might enjoy a baked potato.
    • If you do want to add dairy, or a non-dairy substitute, reduce the amount of broth by one cup and then add in the dairy close to the end of the cooking time.
  • If you like blended soups, take the pot off the hob and let it cool for a few minutes. Depending on the size of your blender, either carefully ladle the whole thing into the blender, or blend half the soup and then half again.
  • This can easily be made vegan by either substituting a vegetable broth or simply using water and upping the amount of spices/herbs and salt.

Hasselback Potatoes: When You Want Fries, but Cutting Them Up Seems Hard

Sometimes I want fried potatoes, but a) can’t because deep frying terrifies me, and b) my lord, does it seem like a lot of work. When in doubt, and when I want to look fancy, but also feel a bit accomplished, I make “Hasselback Potatoes” which are a sort of crossover potato dish. They’re fancier than just plain ol’ baked potatoes, and the slices mean I can stuff just…so much more fake butter and salt than I should. And you can put anything you want on it! Make it vegan and plant-based! Make it paleo or vegetarian with all the cheese in the world. Add bacon and get your carnivore on! It’s your potato! So come with me, theoretical reader, as I show you have to make the one potato dish you’ll ever need for when company calls, or you want to treat yourself to a date for one.

Let me just get out here that I have no idea where this dish came from. Wikipedia has an unsourced accreditation to a Swedish chef (insert muppet here) in 1959, but I only remember hearing about it a couple of years ago…possibly on the Food Network. Regardless of however it came into my life, it is a potato dish, and thus, I will never let it go. I confess I hate the texture of baked potatoes, and love the brazen salt glut of a good pile of fries, and Hasselback potatoes hit me in the happy medium. Also, I made ketchup again, and I needed something to drench in it. (Pity me, it’s a disease!)

For people like me, with a corn allergy, root vegetables like potatoes can be dangerous. They soak up a lot of what’s in the ground, and so if the farmer grows them in the field with corn-based fertilizers or sprays them with corn-based chemicals for shipment, you can run into real trouble. When I buy potatoes in the grocery store, I buy loose potatoes–not bagged–and I try to aim for the dirtiest ones I can find.

I know it sounds weird, but it’s true! The more dirt is on a vegetable, the less likely you are to run into some kind of chemical you might be allergic to, like the sprout inhibitor some potatoes are sprayed with. Always be careful!

You’ll Need (Serves 1):

1 medium sized potato (I like russets or yukon golds)

1/4 cup olive oil

Salt and Pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 375F, and line a casserole pan with aluminum foil. Then wash and peel your potato, removing any dark spots or hardened eyes you uncover.

To make Hasselback potatoes, take a sharp, heavy knife, and carefully cut slices width-wise down the length of your potato. You want to make each slice approximately as big as teh other for each cooking, and you want to take the knife down almost but not quite cutting through the potato. Be very careful with your knife! I speak as one who has sawed through their thumbnail and lived to regret it.

Decrease the oven to 350F. Put the potato in the casserole dish and cover in oil, salt, and pepper. Cook until a fork can be pushed into the side of the potato easily and come out cleanly (about 45 minutes to an hour). Then add whatever toppings you want! I like salt, pepper, a lot of Miyoko’s fake butter, and a dollop of Forager’s unsweetened plain yogurt.

Shepherd’s Pie

Not surprisingly, when I made lamb stew, two days later I had leftover lamb stew, about enough for one person to have a small bowl, and no inclination to be athletic in the kitchen. This isn’t surprising on a Saturday, so as I stared at the insides of the fridge, vaguely warning myself that I was letting all the cold air out (did your parents tell you that, too, as a child? Some things you can never quite leave behind you), I sort of aimlessly decided that lamb was too expensive to go to waste. I had a potato, and I had some fake butter, time to make a pie!

Well, not a real pie. I mean ‘pie’ like the British make them: savory and with potatoes. Shepherd’s Pie is one of those recipes that everyone should have on hand to make up a warm, solid meal without too much fuss and to get rid of all those leftover vegetables you wind up with. It’s tasty, it’s easily stretched from two people to a feast with barely any math involved, and it stays in the oven, heating your entire house and making it smell like a medieval kitchen. Culinary cosplay is nothing to be ashamed of! Sure, technically, I wouldn’t have survived the Middle Ages with my allergies, but this is my pretend world, and if I say Eleanor of Aquitaine ate allergy-free, she did!

If you don’t hang around a state with a lot of sheep, Shepherd’s Pie is a meat dish, full of vegetables, topped with a crispy, buttery, mashed potato topper that you cook separately, and then bake into a textural melting pot in the oven. It takes a lot of (fake) butter, not as many potatoes as you might think, and uses up all those vegetal odds and ends you wind up with after a while. Texturally, I think you get more for your buck with chopped meat than you do with ground, but it’s perfectly acceptable to substitute one for the other. If you’re a vegan or a vegetarian, jettisoning the meat means introducing more root vegetables than just the mashed potato, such as rutabagas, turnips, or parsnips. You could also use lentils, chickpeas, borlotti or kidney beans. It’s winter! Think like a Hobbit.

The prep for this recipe comes from the fact that you cook the pie filling before you make the pie. That makes less clean up and cook time in the oven later on, because it decreases the amount of water that has to steam away in the oven. The enemy of a good pie is too much liquid!  Trust me, you don’t want anything boiling over in there; this is supposed to decrease your work, not cause you back pain from scraping out the oven. So cook it down for a little bit before you put the pie together.

I also have to make my own mashed potatoes since I don’t want to try a commercial ready-made brand that might come into contact with a variety of my allergies. For a corn allergy, I know I’m pushing it because people have gotten a reaction from root vegetables that grow in corn-treated soil (the fertilizer, the sprays, take your pick). So far, I’ve done very well with the root vegetables I’ve used from my local grocery store, but always be safe! Substitute what you can’t eat with things you can!  Remember, everyone reacts differently to food when you have an allergy.

For those of you who don’t have leftover stew (probably most of you) I wanted to share my recipe for Shepherd’s Pie starting from the top. This is one of those hurry up and wait dishes, perfect for the weekend with leftovers for lunch the next day, or for when you have to feed many people all at once with a minimum of complaining.

You’ll Need (Serves 2-3):

Pie Ingredients:

2 carrots, chopped small

2 celery stalks, chopped small

1 cup lamb, chopped or ground, or an equivalent amount of root vegetables or legumes

1 onion, chopped small

1/2 cup peas

2 cloves garlic, smashed and chopped

1 small bay leaf

2 tsp. rosemary

2 tsp. thyme

2 Tbsp. parsley

2 tsp. paprika

Salt and Pepper to taste

2 tsp. olive oil

1-1 1/2 cups lamb broth or water

1-2 tsp. tapioca flour (optional)

To Make:

Heat olive oil in a large pot at medium-low and add in the herbs/spices to fry them up a bit. Add the meat to brown it and make sure to add salt and pepper as well. Lamb has a lot of fat to it, so if you don’t want it all, remove the meat from the pot, and drain out the excess oil before returning the pot to the stove, turning it on and starting to soften the vegetables.

Add all the vegetables except the peas in with the meat and cook them, stirring sometimes, until the vegetables start to feel soft and the onions are translucent. I always add the garlic about two minutes before I add the broth to keep it from burning. Once a little scrapable stuff develops on the bottom of the pot, deglaze the whole thing with the broth or water, and leave it to cook down for about twenty minutes.

If you’re adding the tapioca flour, keep a little broth back to mix the flour into a slurry before adding it to the pot. That way you won’t get little lumps of flour in the pie filling.

Turn the heat to medium and let the mixture bubble up a little bit. No violently roiling boils here! Just polite penny-sized bubbles easily broken by your spoon as you stir it to make sure nothing sticks to the bottom.

Once the filling has reduced enough that it looks like meat and vegetables in a gravy that covers the back of your spoon, take out the bay leaf. Choose an ovenproof casserole dish big enough for your filling and carefully ladle the stew out of the pot. The ideal amount is that the stew hits the halfway mark on the dish, but don’t worry about it. Add the peas, and leave the pie filling alone as you make your mashed potatoes for the topping.

Mashed Potato Topper:

1 large russet potato or sweet potato, or 4 small potatoes

5 Tbsp. fake or real butter (I use Miyoko’s)

4 cups water to cook the potatoes in

Salt and Pepper to taste

To make:

First off, give your potatoes a good wash in the sink. I’d say scrub, but since we’re in the army now and peeling these potatoes, it doesn’t really matter. Peel the potatoes and dig out any dark spots or eyes. Set a pot with the four cups of water on the stove at medium. To make the potato cook faster, chop it up. Potatoes are really slippery, so in order to be safe, I hold my knife at a forty-five degree angle, and turn my potato over and over each time I make a cut, which makes the pieces of a uniform size and shape.  Add the potatoes and salt to the water and let them boil, stirring occasionally so it doesn’t bubble over. The potatoes are done when you can stick a fork in them without resistance.

Drain the potatoes, leaving a tablespoon of starchy water in the bottom. Add salt, pepper, and 3 Tbsp. of fake butter to the pieces, and then mash them smooth. Do not be afraid!  Use a masher, use a fork, and just smash those potatoes into submission.

To assemble the pie:

Preheat your oven to 375F. Spoon heaping portions of mashed potato on top of your filling, and carefully smooth the top out to the sides to make it look more like a pie and less like a savory ice cream sundae. Quarter two tablespoons of fake butter and push the pieces strategically into the top so that it will melt and make a crispy, buttery texture. Take a butter knife and make four steam holes in the top of the pie, then set the dish on to a baking sheet covered in foil in case it boils over, and put the whole shebang into the oven.

To make:

Decrease the temperature of the oven to 350F, and cook until the pie is brown and bubbling and you can see crisp bits on the top and smell the cooking food. Once cooked, take it out, and let it cool for a few minutes or serve immediately. Takes about 45 minutes to an hour.

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